The casual subculture is a subsection of association football culture that is typified by football hooliganism and the wearing of expensive European designer clothing.[1][2][3][4][5] The subculture originated in the United Kingdom in the late 1970s when many hooligans started wearing designer labels and expensive sportswear in order to avoid the attention of police. They did not wear club colours, so it was easier to infiltrate rival groups and to enter pubs.
Music genres popular among casuals in the late 1970s included: mod revival, postpunk, Oi! and ska.[6][unreliable source][dead link] By the 1980s, casuals' music tastes were eclectic, with some enjoying pop groups such as Wham!, ABC, The Human League, Spandau Ballet andAdam and the Ants.[7][unreliable source][dead link] In the late 1980s and early 1990s, many casuals were part of the Madchester and ravescenes, and in the 1990s, many were fans of Britpop.[6][unreliable source][dead link] There was a strong crossover with rave culture, with many ravers wearing football casual brands but distanced from football hooliganism.[7][unreliable source][dead link][8][9] Madchester bands sometimes wore casual clothing on stage and in publicity photographs, as did Britpop acts such as Blur in their video for "Parklife". Since then, the most popular genre among casuals has been indie rock.[6][dead link]
The art video Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore by Turner Prize-winning artist Mark Leckey documents casuals in the context of other British subcultures.
History
British football support has had a strong fashion-led subculture element since the rise of the Teddy Boys in the mid 1950s. This continued with the mods of the early 1960s, the skinheads of the late 1960s (and later), and the mod revivalists of the late 1970s.
The casual subculture began in the late 1970s after Liverpool F.C.and Everton F.C. fans introduced the rest of England to European fashions that they acquired while following Liverpool at their 1977 European Cup quarter final against the French side St Etienne. These Liverpool fans arrived back in England with expensive Italian and French designer sportswear, most of which they looted from stores. The fans brought back many unique clothing brands that had not been seen in the country before. Soon other fans were clamouring for these rare items of clothing, such as Lacoste or Sergio Tacchini shirts, and unusual Adidas trainers, which are still associated with Liverpool supporters today. At the time, many police forces were still on the lookout for skinhead fans wearing Dr. Martens boots, and paid no attention to fans in expensive designer clothing.
In the 1980s, other clothing labels that became associated with casuals included: Pringle, Burberry, Fila, Stone Island, Fiorucci, Pepe,Benetton, Ralph Lauren, Henri Lloyd, Lyle & Scott, Ben Sherman, Fred Perry, Kappa and Slazenger. Fashion trends frequently changed, and the casual subculture reached its peak in the late 1980s. With the arrival of the acid house, rave and Madchester scenes, the violence of the casual subculture faded.
1990s and 2000s
In the mid-1990s, the casual subculture experienced a revival, but emphasis on style had changed slightly. Many football fans adopted the casual look as a kind of uniform, identifying them as different from the ordinary club supporters. Popular clothing brands included Stone Island, Aquascutum, Burberry, Lacoste, Prada, Façonnable, Hugo Boss, Maharishi, Mandarina Duck and Dupe. In the late 1990s, many football supporters began to move away from the brands that were considered the casual uniform, because of the police attention that these brands attracted. Several designer labels also withdrew certain designs from sale after they became associated with casuals.
Casual fashion experienced an increase in popularity in the 2000s, with British music acts such as The Streets and The Mitchell Brotherssporting casual outfits in their music videos. Casual culture has been highlighted by films and television programmes such as ID, The Firm,The Football Factory and Green Street. Although some casuals have continued to wear Stone Island clothing in the 2000s, many have detached the compass badge so as to be less obvious. However, with the two buttons still attached, those in the know are still able to recognise the clothing items. Other clothing labels associated with casuals in the 2000s have included: Adidas Originals, Lyle & Scott, Fred Perry, Armani, Lambretta, Lacoste, Nudie Jeans, Edwin and Superga. Many casuals have adopted a more subtle and underground look, avoiding more mainstream clothing brands for independent clothing labels.
Casuals United, also known as UK Casuals United,[10] is a British anti-Islamic protest group that formed in 2009.[11] It is closely affiliated with the English Defence League,[12] a far right[13][14][15][16][17] street protest movement which opposes what it sees as the spread ofIslamism, Sharia law and Islamic extremism in England.[18][19]
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